On April 6th 1994 the President of Rwanda's airplane crashed and years of civil war erupted into unimaginable violence. In the hundred days that followed approximately a million people died at the hands of their neighbors. The divided and dominated history of the country led to unimaginable levels of hatred and anger. Violence continued for several years after the genocide in refugee camps and internal displacement camps. But through strong leadership and a strong desire for peace, the Rwandan people have made incredible strides in the last twenty years in development. The country's economy is growing and social welfare programs have expanded. The Rwandan people are dedicated to remembering the genocide so it will never happen again. That first week of April every year is dedicated to Genocide Remembrance. The communities hold discussions each afternoon, build memorials, and hold events. I was lucky enough to be able to attend one of the large events in my village. Below I describe my experience and my opinions, with only the hope to shed some light on how the Rwandan people remember the genocide but with no real insight on their personal struggles.
I walked to the event with Rhea, my neighbor-friend. I commented as we walked that it was a beautiful day. The sun was shining, a nice sight in the rainy season, and there was a light breeze rolling off the mountains in the north. As we walked through the town center I could see the droves of people heading to the sector office. When we approached there was 6 big tents set up with hundreds of lawn chairs lined up in preparation, already they had begun to fill. “Ni nini,” (Its big) I said to Rhea. She smiled “Yego” (yes). Immediately upon arriving I saw Theonille’s husband. I greeted him and he swept me away from Rhea toward the choir. Apparently my choir was singing and because I had been gone on vacation I was out of the loop. I felt so bad in my black shirt and purple skirt when the whole choir was wearing white and black. They insisted I sing with them though so I sat down and did my best to follow the melody and mouth the vowels correctly.
The beginning of the ceremony was basically a small catholic mass so my choir sang a whole bunch. We prayed for the hearts of Rwandans, for those lost, and for healing in Rwanda. I assume there was a small mass because a majority of the community is catholic or at least Christian.
As the mass progressed more and more people filed into the area. The ushers tried to bring out more benches as people first arrived but eventually the crowd grew too large. Sitting under one tent were the District Officials and other guests. Under another tent were choirs from different churches. Then the rest of the community members sat in the grass as the benches and chairs filled. By the end of the mass there must have been almost a thousand people at the event.
After the mass finished, the district officials abruptly got in their cars and left. Everyone else remained sitting and the MC started giving instructions. Our choir was to move to the other tent and the others choirs were going to start to sing while the officials were gone. I got up to move with the choir when Eric, the education secretary, grabbed my hand and said you are a guest so you will sit in the guest tent. He sat me in the same tent as the district officials, which felt like quite the privilege. I got to sit in the very back thank goodness, being as I really have no official status.
I met a couple of the district officials who hadn’t left as I sat under the guest tent. They explained that the officials had left to go put flowers in the river because that’s where many of the Tutsi’s bodies were placed during the Genocide. Only the officials went because it would take too long for everyone to go. So during their leave I watched the other choirs perform. They had beautiful bright dresses and did many dances. Some of the ladies did their whole performance with babies on their backs, an impressive feat for both mom and baby.
The officials returned and filled in all of the seats in front of me. They began the second half of the program with a prayer from a Protestant Minister and from the Islamic leader in Kibangu. Then there was a list of speakers and other musical performances. The first speaker was a man from Kibangu who had survived the genocide. I was trying very hard to understand his Kinyarwanda, but it was difficult. I got something about him going up into the mountains in the forest with his older sister and his father, but I’m not sure of the details. The crowd was quiet during the story, listening intently to a tale that was probably all to familiar. One woman sitting on the grass next to me had to leave. After he spoke the district official for genocide remembrance spoke. He was even more difficult to understand. His words had an impact on the crowd of people. One woman in the back had to be carried out by the health center nurses that were attending the event. I assume because of trauma.
Once he finished speaking the health center staff performed an acapella song that was really beautiful about the genocide and remembrance. Than the mayor of the district addressed the crowd. She was a grand woman whose words had perceptible warmth to them and she invited us all in; to reflect, to remember, and then to move forward in the schools, the health centers, and the community to continue to develop. The final speaker was another woman. I’m not sure what her position was but she also spoke eloquently from what I could understand.
A group sang several more songs, as Fantas were handed out to the first several rows of the crowd. We ended the ceremony with a prayer from one of the pastors at a Protestant Church. The prayer ended and the group of guests where I was sitting were the first to depart. I walked out not sure exactly where I was going, but I soon found people to chat with. I talked to some of the sector officials and other teachers. I saw several of my students and chatted with them. It was really wonderful having so many people together.
Before I left for vacation, I had donated some money for a Genocide Memorial to be built. I looked over at the sector office and there it stood. I walked with my friend Christophe to go see it. One the memorial there are names of all the people from Kibangu Sector who had been lost in the Genocide. As I looked at it, I saw several people walk up and point to names they recognized in some way or another. Almost a dozen different bouquets of flowers lay at its base, several with names on the ribbons. At the top was the flame, the symbol for genocide remembrance in Rwanda. The memorial was bitter sweet. I was devastated to see just so many names listed, but also grateful that now there was a list. Now their relatives would have maybe a little more peace knowing that their loss would not be forgotten, it would be etched in stone forever to be remembered.
I greeted several other people as I walked back home, feeling happy to see some familiar faces. Despite the sadness of the topic of event, the crowd seemed grateful to be together and to have one another.
I will never fully understand their loss or the shadows that follow the people I live with every day. The events that occurred here that April 1994 were horrific and hellish and I have so much sympathy for the survivors. I am grateful for the opportunity to just catch a glimpse at their healing process. Everyday they inspire me because of their dedication to peace, healing, improvement, development and their community. “Remember” they say. And while remembering they look forward to a brighter future for all of Rwanda.